You need to list the sparge water salts as going into the sparge.Īlso, Bru’n Water has a setting for type of Calcium Chloride. When I imported an old recipe it assumed all my salts were added to the mash (not split between the mash and sparge or mash and boil.) Because of this, the reported water chemistry looked much higher than Bru’n Water reports. Don't know if it's true but the obvious question that leads to is "Is today's PU as good as it was 20 years ago?" I'd say "no" but they sell a lot more of it.In BS3, the water tab reports the mash water chemistry. Just as a footnote to this: I've heard rumors that PU is adding some sulfate to their liquor. I can't allow the idea that Gordon's conclusions are a myth to stand and that's why I posted #22 and this. And though I couldn't believe it at first, I've had bad beer in Germany (not very often though). Of course I don't have any detailed information on this and will readily accept that there may be, and in fact probably are, some breweries using Noble hops and high sulfate water. There are certainly plenty of beers made with high sulfate water made in Germany but do they use Noble hops? Probably not as other cultivars are grown in Germany and they must be going somewhere. That says that there are at least two of us in agreement on this which implies that there are probably more (Gordon and I are each unique in our own ways but probably not in this particular way) but does not claim that our opinion is universally held nor even held by the 'vast majority' (though it probably is). I think that is what Gordon is trying to say and he is quite correct in my opinion. In case the analogy isn't clear: beer made with noble hops and sulfate may taste OK but it doesn't represent the best that can be achieved with Noble hops. The frame is still nice and you like the picture but you've thrown away much of what you have paid for. So if you use Noble hops with high sulfate water it's sort of like buying an old master and replacing the painting with a velvet tiger from Tijuana. You need to understand that while much of the appeal of the Noble cultivars is in their heavenly aroma a large part of it lies in the fineness of the bittering they impart. Please note again, and you did, that Gordon states that sulfate an NOBLE hops don't mix well. It is, of course, a matter of personal preference and I don't like a lot of those beers you refer to. I am a proponent of AJ's contention that sulfate is not a good component of European Lagers. Don't worry about the ratio, but do make sure that the levels are relatively low. I agree with AJ that at the low Cl and SO4 levels in Munich water, there wouldn't be much effect from the SO4/Cl ratio. Don't try to recreate a Munich profile, aim for the boiled version. As AJ says, avoid adding alkalinity unless its absolutely necessary. That unboiled Munich profile would probably not make a very good Dunkel or many other beers. That post-boil water Munich profile may be more appropriate for a Dunkel, but they may have also included a small percentage of unboiled and decanted water in the mash to avoid creating too acidic a mash for their tastes. That is why Bru'n Water also includes a relatively conservative estimate for the Munich water profile after it has been boiled (Munich (boiled) profile). The high levels shown are the current levels reported for Munich, but please recognize that the brewer now and historically reduced the alkalinity for their brewing. Recognize that pre-boiling and decanting the brewing water is and was an effective treatment option for highly alkaline water like Munich's. This is not likely, even with RO water, given the amounts of dark malt required to produce a good dunkles. Chalk (or another alkali) can be added to the mash should the mash pH come in too low. This is difficult to do properly and more trouble than it is worth. You should definitely not add chalk to brewing water. if it is high in bicarbonate this is especially important. As with any other style you should check mash pH with a recently calibrated meter as where the actual pH falls can vary dramatically with the amount and type of dark malts employed. Acid should not be needed as the dark malt should supply enough in most cases. You ought to be able to make a pretty fine dunkles by using RO or other low mineral water with a bit of calcium chloride and nothing else. Thus low sulfate water is really what is desired for dunkles and while the chloride is also low for Munich water most beers benefit from a modest amount of chloride. Chloride/sulfate ratios may be applicable in brewing British beers but they are definitely not applicable in brewing most lagers as the desireable chloride to sulfate ratio for most of them in infinite sulfate as low as possible. Other than bicarb and the attendant hardness (calcium) Munich water is pretty low in mineral content.
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